Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 was one of the most inspiring we’ve experienced. The shows were fun, the clothes interesting. For the first time ever, there was a at least one model of color in every show we saw – and yes, one model may seem unimportant, but it’s not. This is major progress that we can only hope continues.
Here’s the best of CPHFW SS16:
It was wonderful to start our fashion week on this note. Seeing the graduation projects of these young designers was exciting and joyful. The use of varied materials and the strong threads of narrative in each mini-collection (three pieces) was a nice way to remember what fashion collections are supposed to be about.
We couldn’t make Larsen’s show last season, so it was great to see him back in top form. This season built upon his previous work – particularly the patterns and colors – with some notable detail elevation. His jackets, as always, are completely lust-worthy.
As the name indicates, Lala Berlin is a non-Scandi brand. There’s definitely a Scandi vibe here, however, drawing from Stine Goya watercolour with a more feminine silhouette. The makeup look here was one of our favourites: subtle and wearable with a fabulous lip.
A fashion show with no seating in the basement of a parking garage may not sound like much fun, but it really was. This was Maikel’s most daring and personal collection to date, with the introduction of bright red and bold pattern. Aside from the show itself, it was hilarious to witness a bunch of fashion people crowded into a carpark, held back by police tape.
Shredded-gothic casual wear with a hint of whimsy: Barbara i Gongini never strays far from its core aesthetic. There were a few dresses this season that were surprising in their mainstream wearability, but the styling and hair/make-up kept the ensembles in the Barbara i Gongini visual universe. The addition of Beetlejuice-style stripes is a departure from the usual all-black-all-the-time but the cuts kept it all in line.
Models circled the matted grey trailer park installation, adorned in nylon balaclavas and cotton face scarves, bringing a definitively Han Kjøbenhavn production to life. A a mix of rich textures, clean cuts, and deep autumn colours elevated heavy tear-away track pants for a contemporary 90s aesthetic. Socks and open-toed sandals never looked so good.
It would be a mistake to see Henrik Vibskov as only a fashion designer and to see his runway shows as simple catwalks. Vibskov is interested in the overall experience. Amazingly, the slow-moving statue-like dancers positioned down the centre of the runway didn’t distract from the clothes. Vibskov’s silhouettes are voluminous yet simple, with a mix of patterns and artistic accessories.
This is how all runway shows should be: exciting, funny, cool. It was an intimate show in the courtyard of Bakken nightclub in Kødbyen with free-flowing drinks and a rowdy crowd. Kunz’s minimalist luxury sportswear made a cohesive, monochrome collection. His jackets in particular were fabulous. That womenswear leather jacket with a silky train is currently at the top of our wishlist.
CIFF just keeps getting better. With the additions of sections like Raven Projects (focused on collaborations), a more user-friendly layout than previous years and a host of international brands, we were impressed with what was on offer. Also: great job with the press lounge, guys!
Streetstyle is one of the reasons fashion weeks in general are so much fun. It’s not just about what’s on the runways: it’s about what is inspiring people right now. Check out our streestyle article for more fashion eye candy.
What were your favorite moments of Copenhagen Fashion Week?
Han Kjøbenhavn words by Sheila Lam and photos by CPHFW. Photos by Freya McOmish.