Copenhagen Fashion Week is currently the only fashion week in Scandinavia, and perhaps the only physical version in the world. The spring-summer 2021 edition saw fewer designers than previous seasons, with many opting for a digital presentation as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. The events and shows that did go ahead made use of the newly opened Villa Hotel, plus a handful of open-air spaces around the city.
The collections shown were sparser than before but benefitted from such a tight edit: they were perfectly curated and filled with everyday essentials and modern classics.
Here’s the best Scandinavian menswear during this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week:
Henrik Vibskov
Playful, cartoonish, yet still somehow completely classic, Henrik Vibskov designs for a modern man still in contact with his inner child. This season saw inspiration drawn from fire and a burned-out motorcycle Vibkov spotted around town. This was brought through in prints that resembled smudges of ash and the occasional biking detail – like the elbow insert in a denim jacket – across Vibskov’s quintessential silhouette of cropped jackets and wide legs.
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Hope
Swedish brand HOPE designs inline with its “new standard.” That is, there is no reason why clothes should be decided by gender. As Creative Director Frida Bard says: “Style has no gender.” The goal is to create a collection that can be worn by anyone. For SS21 this meant mix-and-match suiting, often oversized and evocative of the kind Michael Jordan championed in the 90s, but with flared trousers and shorts, and a muted color pallet that was disturbed only once with a Barbie-pink 2-piece in a crinkled fabric – because boys can play with Barbie too.
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Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s SS21 collection presented classic menswear pieces made exclusively in sand, ecru, beige, and off-white, paired with woven leather sandals. There was a touch of the 1930s to the wide pleated legs and sweater vests, but the execution and addition of modern staples like a perfectly relaxed t-shirt prevented the collection from becoming costume.
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Mfpen
Copenhagen-based mfpen built on the relaxed-yet-formal layering of previous seasons, building looks with classic menswear pieces that can easily be mixed and matched. Softer moments, like a sheer sweater vest, offset structured jackets and created a timeless wardrobe for a modern man. As in previous seasons, the focus remained on fabrication and developing products to a high quality. This season they utilized deadstock materials in more than 90% of their collection.
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Rains
Slick, waterproof outerwear that is (unfortunately) totally relevant for a Scandinavian spring or summer, but at least Rains makes it look good. Highlights included water-resistant shirts, a translucent PVC two-piece, and suit with lapels cut from a rubberized material. It was uber-cool and if you’re not wearing matching, tonal rainwear next season, you’re doing it wrong.
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Soeren Le Schmidt
Although the womenswear had some patchy moments, and the references seemed a little confused, when the menswear leaned heavily into 70s silhouettes the results were hard not to enjoy. From safari suits to Saturday Night Fever-worthy lapels, Schmidt’s tight tailoring was given a dash of humor with its Abigail’s Party-ready pieces. A baby blue prom suit that could easily become a statement jacket in any wardrobe was a highlight.
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Samsøe Samsøe
The Samsøe Samsøe SS21 collection was filled with modern-day essentials and new classics, inspired by the company’s Nørrebro headquarter. Everything is completely wearable and utilitarian with the edge of street style – which was most keenly felt by the use of skateboarding teens in their collection campaign.
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