Copenhagen Fashion Week has long been the largest of the Scandinavian fashion weeks and this season, with the Stockholm edition being cancelled, it became the clear highlight of the region’s fashion calendar.
Despite the all-seasons-in-one-day kind of weather, Copenhagen Fashion Week gave a glimpse into what makes life in the Danish capital so beautiful. The shows and presentations were held all over the city, many making use of open outdoor spaces. Well-established brands, newcomers, and a few returns of prodigal sons presented us a sneak peak of what spring-summer 2020 will look like in sartorial terms.
Here’s the best Scandinavian menswear we saw this season at Copenhagen Fashion Week:
Pseudonym invited us into a midsummer’s dream, including flower picking, during its debut presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Tailoring in relaxed silhouettes was combined with sports and workwear. Cycling-inspired pieces paid homage to the bike as the number one mode of transport in Copenhagen and silky scarves tied around the models’ necks or worn over their hair added to the dreamy vibe of this collection.
In the beautiful venue of Statens Museum for Kunst, Samsøe Samsøe presented a vision for spring-summer 2020 that is effortlessly chic with a nod to workwear. The collection featured classical menswear silhouettes, neutrals, denim, checks, and stripes. Bucket hats and pants that brought to mind Boy Scout uniforms added an utilitarian aesthetic. A highlight of the show was a small leather bag, á la Jacquemus, worn across the model’s neck, cross-body, and as a belt.
Henrik Vibskov debuted his spring-summer 2020 collection at Paris Men’s Fashion Week but returned to Copenhagen for another presentation. “Stuck Under the Surface” was a mix of runway show and performance art, as is Vibskov’s calling card, with the vibe of an open air summer rave. The collection featured playfully combined geometrical patterns, embroidery, layering, and oversized silhouettes. Accessories, hair styles, and make up evoked images of apocalyptic scenes in a dreamy fantasy world. Welcome back, Henrik, Copenhagen missed you!
Sunflower presented its third collection, “Neon Country,” with an aesthetic that could be described as “Scandi cowboy on a night out.” Laid-back tailoring was combined with shiny shirts, white denim, black leather coats, and an occasional splash of neon pink and yellow. The secret stars of the show were the cowboy boots that carried the models over the runway.
Holzweiler showed menswear staples which were elegant and warm at the same time. The color palette featured mostly neutrals with a splash of orange and creamy yellow. The patterns paid homage to Holzweiler’s scarf-origin in a subtle way. While other brands went colorful or pattern-heavy, Holzweiler kept it minimalist and utilitarian, with a foot in sportswear and another in sharp tailoring.
In its second runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Mfpen showed a collection that draws inspiration from the changing of the seasons that is so visible in Scandinavia. Jackets and knitwear were layered over elegant but relaxed shirts, giving the collection a more dressed-up feel than is usual for spring-summer. It was a breath of fresh air!
Soulland, you made it to the party! Though the Danish streetwear brand has been at the top of the scene for some time, this was the brand’s first time showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week. They did not disappoint. With patterned and colorful silky pajama-style sets, sleek suits, and patchwork looks, Soulland made the case for their dominance in the cool-kid scene. It wasn’t exactly grown-up, but neither was it immature; a great balance of fun and function.
Header image by Chloe De Nombel for Scandinavia Standard.
See behind the scenes from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS20.