Actually attending the autumn/winter season during fashion weeks in Scandinavia can feel a bit daunting. It is how cold? I need to bike to how many locations? But once the shows start, that all melts away (literally, the ice on your boots melts when you’re inside). The creativity, beauty, wearability and (sometimes, happily) outright weirdness that comes down the runway is the perfect warming shot for these otherwise chilly days.
But lots of clothes are nice. So what were the best looks at Scandinavian fashion weeks?
These are the Scandi coats, dresses, and more, that had us swooning during Copenhagen, Stockholm and Olso fashion weeks this season:
Stockholm Fashion Week
We appreciate that Swedish designer Emelie Janrell does what she wants. There wasn’t a lot of purple on the runways this season, but it was one of her stand-out colors. This velvet jacket and dress combo, with a pop of red in the lining and a little leopard on the collar, could be too much but somehow is just right. Sexy, a little eccentric, and cool. For something a little more laid-back but still unexpected, this black and navy ensemble had us starry-eyed.
This year was Filippa K’s 25th anniversary and they decided to go big, in the most minimalist way possible. Doing what they do best, the brand yet again made the case for tasteful, sleek minimalism. They stuck to a color scheme of white, black, navy and grey; their all-grey looks in particular were a masterclass of artful hue and texture layering.
Yes, Johannes Adele! With a black, white and moss green color palette, Adele has brought together influences from the traditional Bolivian sombrero and shawl-draping, Swedish pattern-making, and American 40s and 70s suiting. The shine of the leather against the warm colors of the shawl, and the impeccable tailoring of his tweed, made for an incredible blending of cultures and periods that looked all-together modern.
Down with binary thinking, up with Aleksander Sahr! His Oslo Runway debut showcased menswear with ruffles, high-waisted skirts and loads of color. His drawstring “corset” tops are an easy-breezy take on the classic silhouette, without the breathing restrictions.
Images by Ole Christian Ekelund & Andreas Lange
Bright color combinations, unexpected draping and sleek silhouettes characterised Olestad’s collection this season. You can see the influence of his former work at Acne Studios; this is definitely for the club crowd, but fashionable as hell. His greens and blues were expertly paired and oh-so-good.
Copenhagen Fashion Week
Uniforms for the Dedicated
Bring back the boutonnière! Finally, someone has stepped up to the plate. Aside from a truly diverse show casting (YES THANK YOU), Uniforms for the Dedicated impressed us with their minimalism-meets-military vibe and beautiful details, such as oversized stitching, piping and a red carnation in each lapel. These are high-quality clothes that will never go out of style, and the Swedish design house makes it look easy every season.
The queen of making off-centre silhouettes look chic, Freya Dalsjø’s show this year was both cool and collected. There’s always a twist, no matter how simple the clothes appear at first glance. Her pointy-shouldered trench and double-breasted vest made into a sash were among the best things we saw this whole season.
Knowing Morten Ussing’s previous collection of candy-colored tulle confections, anticipation for this season was high. Ussing didn’t disappoint, with hyper-feminine silhouettes and rich colors that bring to mind 1970s Elisabeth Taylor; his deep pink empire waist, pleated dress is a stand-out. The opening siver number was Grace Jones-meets Bianca Jagger fabulousness.
Munthe’s show this season was all about wearable separates and matching suits. Their pink sateen suit had the whole audience mentally updating their wardrobes. Lots of brands do a faux fur leopard coat, but few are this good; we also love that stripe of tartan across the chest for the perfect pattern clash.
We love emerging brand mfpen’s casual look and impeccable tailoring. It’s branded as menswear, but everyone would look great in this checked suit and high-waisted peg-leg trouser!
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
The king of Danish ready-to-wear-that-looks-like-couture took his signature highly feminine style this season and turned it on its head. Masculine suiting, oversized jackets and deconstructed button-down shirts dominated the show. This tailoring is, as always, immaculate. The suits, with a silky patterned pussy-bow blouse, were a touch preppy, complimented by oversized but structured overcoats that everyone will be trying to get their hands on.
This was Lærke Andersen’s first runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week and she’s well on her way to positioning herself as one of Denmark’s most interesting fashion voices. Her workwear-cum-streetwear plays with proportion and silhouette in a way that is fun but wearable. Her basketball jersey-meets-workshop smock dress in black with a bright blue stripe is casual cool, while her bright blue demi-bondage overcoat asks if you can ever have too many straps (answer: no!).
A runway is basically just a fashion treadmill, and Sunnei finally got right down to it and just put models on actual treadmills! The Italian brand’s debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week was fun, irreverent and definitely different. A bright blue full-body down vest? Okay! Lime green and black suit? Yeah! Definitely not minimalist, and definitely a refreshing moment this season.
Bitte Kai Rand
The Bitte Kai Rand show was really a party. The muse was an unpretentious adventurous collecting hidden treasures like rock and mineral specimens. The models were dancers, showcasing their moves with pumping music and clothes that allowed them to move easily. The clothes were classic and easy-to-wear, as is always the case with Rand’s work; it was the energy of the show that got us hyped.